Going Gray: Gray Hair Maintenance

Going gray has never been more chic. Celebrities are leading the charge, owning their white, gray and silver strands, and you can, too.

The Gray Hair Movement

There has undoubtedly been an influx of women embracing their gray hair in recent years, and hair gurus credit this to a few different shifts. “We’re finally starting to see silver hair embraced in the fashion industry and in Hollywood. I think that helps women decide that they can do it too,” says hairstylist and gray blending specialist Farah Hurdle.

I love these gray streaks that surround my face! It’s hilarious to me because I never thought I’d be in this place of total peace and acceptance.

Ricki Lake

With broader societal acceptance of gray hair, women feel more comfortable letting go of former beauty standards. “Women are realizing what’s important to them,” says Hurdle. “They are working, they are moms, they have social lives, they are busy. They don’t want to be tied to salon visits every four to five weeks.” Celebrity hairstylist Jonathan Hanousek agrees, noting that many women have become frustrated and exhausted by the maintenance and cost of coloring their hair. “The decision to stop coloring is empowering because it brings a sense of freedom,” he adds.

It’s tough to ignore the impact the pandemic had on the gray hair shift as well. Celebrity colorist Sean James pinpoints it as the turning point for the movement. “Salons were closed for nearly a year and a half, and people were forced to stop coloring their hair. In that time, many of them discovered that their natural color—including gray—was beautiful.”

Embracing the Gray

Ready to commit? There are a few expert tips that can help make the shift smoother. “If you’re embracing your gray, make it intentional,” says James, who recommends working with a colorist on a personalized approach. This can include gray blending, a gloss, or soft highlights or lowlights.

Hurdle suggests seeing a gray blending specialist like herself and reminds people to be patient with the process. “The blend gets more and more beautiful after each session. It’s magical.” Hanousek says gray blending is great for anyone who may still be on the fence, as it eases the transition.

As my silver grew in, I liked how I looked—perhaps for the first time. I liked what it did to my eyes and skin tone. I liked other women reaching out, pleased to have someone to virtually hold hands with as they shed their own dye. I liked that I was free.

Hilarie Burton

“Working with a professional can help you choose the right tone for your hair,” says James. “Bringing in an image of a hair color or tone you love is always helpful so your stylist can design the perfect color for you.” Also, don’t be afraid to try a new hairstyle with your gray hair, adds Hanousek. “A great haircut can make all the difference and is often the key to feeling more confident and beautiful.”

If you want to keep your gray hair healthy…

Masking the Gray

There’s no wrong choice here—just your preference,” says James. “In-salon root touch-ups are always going to deliver the best results,” he adds. James preaches caution when it comes to at-home box dyes, as they can be unpredictable.

Hurdle advises against full coverage, as it’s not the healthiest option for the scalp or hair. “I think people should just use demipermanent color if they want to cover their silvers. It grows out so much better and is gentler on the hair,” she says, noting that you should always see a professional.

If you’re not ready to commit to gray…

We have to look at why there’s interest in me having silver hair, because if I were a man, there would be no question why I had silver hair, right?

Andie MacDowell

Keeping Gray Hair Healthy

Gray hair has different demands, so your routine should shift accordingly. “Grays can be coarse, wiry, fuzzy and/ or dull,” says Hanousek. At-home hair maintenance can greatly impact how refined your color and texture look.

Gray hair is also more vulnerable to yellowing. As a result, experts emphasize the importance of anti-brass products. “Use a blue or purple shampoo when you notice yellowing, which will happen,” says Hanousek. A conditioner that caters to your hair texture is also essential, and Hurdle often recommends scalp oil treatments as well. “Gray hair can be brittle due to the loss of color in the hair,” she says. We have to moisturize our hair, and especially our scalp.