Thickening Haircuts That Instantly Transform Fine Hair

Fact: We all want luscious hair. Whether pin straight or naturally curly, there’s no denying the appeal of volume. For starters, body adds movement and hair that moves usually equates to healthy hair. But for those with thin hair, achieving a bouncy and voluminous style isn’t as easy as spritzing on volumizing spray and sleeping in rollers. Instead, a thickening haircut can be the answer to infusing life into lackluster hair. Strategically designed to mimic the appearance of thick hair, these cuts can make all the difference for fine or thinning hair. Haircuts are transformative, and as celebrity hairstylist Castillo Bataille says, the right haircut can give you more than an effortless look. For fine hair, thickening haircuts create an illusion of density, dimension and depth. Below, two celebrity stylists share the best haircuts that work double duty, adding style and weight to thin hair.

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What is a thickening haircut?

While some haircuts are chosen to get rid of bulk, a thickening haircut is designed to make thin hair look fuller. “The idea is to create the illusion of denser, more voluminous hair,” says hairstylist and salon owner Rodney Cutler. It involves a process similar to removing bulk, but is much more complex. It’s easy to assume layers would do the trick, given that they instantly add dimension to the cut. But when it comes to increasing density, layers, be they choppy or subtle, aren’t enough. As Bataille explains, thickening haircuts require strategic cuts to remove weight in certain areas and increase body and volume in others. “It’s less about layering for movement and more about layering for density, shape and expansion,” he says.

What to ask for at your appointment

The key to getting a good thickening haircut is specificity. Remember, there’s more to the look than edgy layers, and according to Cutler, shape is more important. “Finding a style and length that compliments your face shape is essential,” he says. If you have an idea about the type of cut you’d like to achieve, the structure and build can be better defined by your stylist. Still, there are a few key elements that can help guide them when you’re in the chair. Blunt styles often give the appearance of volume when applied to the right area. For example, a blunt perimeter over choppy bangs gives the entire cut a thicker edge. Internal layering is another technique that can give the illusion of thickness. “It removes weight while adding dimension and encourages lift from the roots, if your hair quickly gets flat on top,” says Bataille. The pro also advises against over-texturizing as too much can make fine hair look sparse.

Thickening haircuts to try

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Lob

Bobs are easily one of the most versatile haircuts. Whether long or short, they have the ability to look much denser than they actually are. The subtle layers of this long bob keep the cut looking soft, while creating the illusion of fullness. It’s the perfect combination for voluminous hair and lots of movement.

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Textured short cut

Excess layers don’t just add texture—they also add volume and movement, making it feel like it is thicker than it truly is. To get the look, he recommends using a root lifter or thickening spray, such as Redken’s Volume Maximizer ($30), to lift the hair from root to tip.

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Pixie

Internal or stacked layers on cropped cuts, such as, the pixie help add shape and fullness. They also create a rounder silhouette, while making the hair look thicker at the crown and edges, says Bataille.

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Ghost layers

Invisible layers work well with thin hair, especially on longer lengths. Unlike a traditional layered haircut, the layers sit under the surface to boost volume and give the appearance of density throughout the length of the hair,” says Bataille.